For those of you who need more power there is the JET Power Control Unit.  A number of people have been talking about getting one, but Ray was the first to install one and provide me the inside scoop.  Ray used to have a site that documented his installation process, but it looks like it is down.  I'm going to leave the link here just in case it comes back.

Ray scanned and sent me a copy of the manual.  I was going to post the filed he sent me, but when I tried to reduct the size, it became unreadable.  So instead I re-typed it into HTML.  As such, there may be typos in the following instructions.


I am only providing it so you can evaluate if you posess the skill (and confidence) to purchase and install a JET Power Control Unit.

Installation Instructions
JET Power Control Unit

1. Mounting the Power Control Unit Computer
Using the supplied Velcro, locate the Power Control Unit in a convenient location under the dash by removing the backing from the Velcro and pressing firmly to ensure a good contact.
TIP: Clean the mounting area with alcohol or another nonabrasive cleaner to ensure the Velcro adheres properly.

2. Disconnect the Negative Battery Cable
Locate the battery under the hood and remove the negative battery cable.

3. Connecting the Power Control Unit + 12 V Power Connection (RED WIRE)
Locate the vehicles fuse box. It is normally located on the drivers side of the vehicle under the dash or in the driver's side kick panel. Included in the Power Control unit installation parts you have two brass fuse adaptors. Depending on which type of fuses your vehicle uses, select the one that fits your type of fuse (early models use round fuses, late models use plastic integral fuses). Connect the fuse adaptor to a fuse for the +12V source that is only on when the key is in the on position. Connect the RED WIRE from the Power Control Unit to the fuse adaptor you just installed.
TIP: Most vehicles have a spare location for accessories. This is a good source for power, but make sure it is only on when the key is in the on and run positions.

4. Routing the Wiring Harness:
The wiring harness must be routed though the firewall to reach under the hood. Under the dash near the location that you mounted the Power Control Unit, locate an existing plug or wiring harness that goes out under the hood and route the Power Control Unit wiring through the firewall.
TIP: Make sure the wiring harness does not interfere with any moving parts (i.e.: gas or brake pedal) or touch anything under the hood that produces excessive heat, such as the exhaust system.

5. Connecting the Power Control Unit ground wire (BLACK WIRE)
Connect the Black Wire from the Power Control Unit to a suitable ground point. Existing screws or nuts that are attached to metal are a good location for this purpose.

6. Connecting the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) Wire (BROWN WIRE)
Using the Power Control Unit wiring pin out chart (pgs. 3 to 6) [NOTE: The chart covers Buick, Chevrolet, Oldsmobile and Pontiac vehicles. I will only include the info for the '00 and '01 Impala and Monte Carlo] locate the correct wiring color and location of the TPS for your vehicle. After locating the TPS you will note that the TPS has THREE wires going to it. Crimp a RED scotchlock connector (this is the type that wraps around the wire and is then crimped closed to pierce the wire) to the wire color that matches the chart for your vehicle. Plug the BROWN WIRE from the Power Control Unit into the scotchlock connector.
TIP: The TPS requires only a single wire. It will be necessary to pull this wire out of the black cable cover so the other wires will reach the MAP sensor.

7. Connecting the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Input Wire (GREY WIRE)
Again, using the Power Control Unit wiring pin out chart, locate the correct wiring color and location of the MAP for your vehicle. After locating the MAP, you will not that the MAP has THREE wires going to it. CUT the wire color that matches the chart for your vehicle about 2 inches away from the sensor, leaving enough room to crimp on a new connector. Strip about 1/4 of an inch of insulation off of both ends of the wire you just cut. Crimp a PINK MALE spade connector to the porion of the wire that is still attached to the MAP sensor. Plug the GREY WIRE from the Power Control Unit into the MALE connector that is now attached to the MAP wire.

8. Connecting the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) Output wire (GREEN WIRE)
Crimp a PINK FEMALE spade connector tot he other portion of the about [NOTE: I think this is a typo in the manual - Nathan] wire that you previously stripped. Plug the GREEN WIRE from the Power Control Unit into the female connector that you just attached.

9. Securing the wiring harness
Using the supplied wire harness cover, cover the TPS wire and route the wiring harness away from any moving engine parts or any exhaust components. With the supplied BLACK cable ties you can now secure the wiring harness' away from any moving engine parts or anything that may get hot enough to melt the wiring insulation.

Chart from pages 3-6

2000-2001 IMPALA 3.4L DK BLUE 1 LT-GREEN H
2000-2001 IMPALA 3.8L DK BLUE 1 LT-GREEN A
2000-2001 M-CARLO 3.4L DK BLUE 1 LT-GREEN H
2000-2001 M-CARLO 3.8L DK BLUE 1 LT-GREEN A



Reconnect the negative battery cable that you removed during the first part of the installation. Make sure the ON/OFF switch on the Power Control Unit is in the OFF position. This is turned to the left. Start the vehicle. Turn the Power Control Unit ON/OFF switch to the ON position. This is turned to the right. If the Power Control Unit is operation, the LED lights on the from panel will illuminate.

NOTE: Not all the LED lights will be illuminated at an idle, just a few of them. As you accelerate the vehicle, more LED lights will illuminate, indicating that the Power Control Unit is functional.
TIP: Don't turn the Power Control Unit off and on while driving. By doing this you are modifying the input signals to the computer and it may cause a trouble code to set in the computers memory.

A lot of people have been complaining that the Check Engine light has been coming on after the JET module is installed.  Although JET has not been able to come up with a solution, Mark may have found the problem:

"I talked to Jet and mentioned to them that once installed, my check engine light was coming on quite frequently.

"The problem: The impala has a very sensitive ecm module.  I had installed the 12volt red wire to the cigarette/aux on the drivers side fuse grid.  This cig/aux does not supply a constant flow of voltage (it drops below the voltage expected by the ecm during start up).  The ecm then throws a CHECK ENGINE error code to the computer.  If I turned the Jet PCM OFF and disconnected the negative battery terminal and left it for 5 mins then reconnected it the CHECK ENGINE code would dissappear.

"I talked to JET and they were aware of the problem but really did not have a proper fix.

"The Fix:

"Forget about the driver side fuse panel.  Use a butt connector and attach a new piece of wire to the red 12volt wire from the JET PCM.  Bring it over to the passenger side fuse panel and use the appropriate brass fuse adaptor (these brass fuse adaptors are a pain, and you have to be very careful as they do not fit exactly easy with the plastic intergral fuse into the fuse grid).  Use the RADIO 15amp fuse.

"I have not had a single CHECK ENGINE error code since doing this.  I have started the car about twenty times today.

"Works like a charm.

"I talked to a friend that works at the dealership I bought my car at.  He's a master tech.  He explained that some 2000 Impalas have very sensitive computers, and any flucuation in voltage anywhere will cause a CHECK ENGINE light.  You could accidentally drop a coin into the cigarette lighter (i don't leave the lighter in the socket, i don't want people smoking in my car) and if the fuse panel doesn't trip it could cause a CHECK ENGINE light.  He explained that the CHECK ENGINE light has gotten alot people scared about it.  99% of the time, a check engine light is nothing."

 Paul installed a JET system in his car and sent in photos:

Engine compartment.  You will need to remove the engine cover.  Clean the area of the cover right around the oil filler extension tube.  A lot of debris collects there and you don't want it to fall into the engine.  Grab the extension tube, turn and remove.  Stuff a paper towel into the oil fill opening to prevent debris from falling in.  Lift the front edge of the cover up and pull toward you.  The rear end of the cover has a pin with a rubber cap on it that fits into a bracket at the back of the engine compartment.  Make sure you don't lose that rubber cap.  It can come off the pin when you are removing the cover so watch for it.  After you remove the cover, you can remove the paper towen and replace the extension tube with the cap or leave the paper towel in for now.
These two areas are where you will have to tie in the JET harness.  The connection on the left is for the MAP wires and the one on the right is for the TPS wire.  Also note the black plastic wire looms that protect the wires and give the project a factory installation look.
TPS connection.
MAP connections.
Control module mounting.

Paul's evaulation:  "The JET module was a real pain to install.  Don't expect miracles here.  The unit is solely designed to force the computer to PE (Power Enrichment) mode earlier.  I would only suggest it to people who are ready to spend a couple of hours and have a LOT of patience.  The result is a nicer, crisper throttle response.  No change at all on the top end. I probably wouldn't have installed it if I knew what a pain it was to get through the firewall.  Fortunately, there is a rubber plug just to the upper-left (if looking from the inside) of the steering column.  I punched a hole in this plug and ran the harness through it.  It worked out well.